Cholon, which directly translates to “Big Market”, was first established in the late 1700’s when a large number of Hoa, an ethnic Chinese minority residing in Vietnam, were forced from the nearby city of Bien Hoa. Over the next hundred years, the area continued to grow in size and population until it was eventually incorporated in 1879. Within 50 years, this hectic Chinese marketplace would join with with the city it directly bordered and become Saigon-Cholon. Although the moniker was officially dropped in the 1950’s, Cholon’s charm is still very much alive, having spread to encapsulate parts of District 5, 6 and 11 today.

Cholon, as its translation indicates, has always been one large market. For nearly 300 years this is where locals have been coming to shop. The streets are lined with vendors hawking food, spices, and questionable medicinal remedies. During the American War, the stretch existed as a black market, overrun by Western soldiers bartering for U.S. Army-issued goods.

At the centre of it all lies the actual, physical shopping centre, Binh Tay Market, which is the usual starting point for any traveller passing through. Binh Tay is a massive structure that’s in its final phases of renovation and restoration. It was first built in the 1800’s and since that time has served as the city’s largest wholesaler. The two-storey building houses vendors peddling everything from handcrafted goods and textiles, to dried fish and fresh produce. Food stalls serve up traditional favourites and are frequented far more often by locals than tourists.

Unfortunately, due to the restoration efforts the market is currently closed and all vendors have moved across the street into a dizzying mishmash of tin-walled stalls. The actual market should re-open sometime in 2018.